DHAMMAYATRA '17 (PART VII): ISIPATANA, TURNING OF THE DHAMMA-WHEEL BY THE BLESSED ONE

Samkampayam dasa-sahassiya-loka-dhātum,

Desesi yatra Bhagavā varadhammacakkam,

Bārānasī purasamīpavane migānam,

Tam Dhammacetiyamaham vandāmi

Varanasi (Baranasi/Benares)

Varanasi was our last stop throughout our pilgrimage in India. A very long, bumpy and breathtaking journey we had from Sravasti. We arrived at Varanasi almost midnight. Among the stops that we had went to, Varanasi is the only stop which I considered more urban and developed. Located at the bank of the River of Ganga in Uttar Pradesh, Varanasi was once the settlement of the Aryans and is one of the very popular in this district. It was named after River Varuna and River Assi. Varanasi is a sacred place for the Hindus as it was believed to be created by Lord Shiva. Varanasi is sometimes referred to as Benares, Baranasi or Kashi. In suttas, one might comes across terms like "sandalwood from Kashi", the Kashi here is definitely referring to this place called Varanasi. Items such as the sandalwood as mentioned are of the finest and highest quality which a very rich person, notably those from the royalty, can afford in the ancient times. 

Sarnath (Isipatana)

The next morning after a great rest, we travelled about 15 minutes to Sarnath, a town next to Varanasi. Sarnath was known as Isipatana in the ancient times, where it means the place where sages land. Upon entering Sarnath, one would notice a pyramidal-liked shape brick structure just on the left. The structure was known as Chaukhandi Stupa. Built during the Gupta Period, this stupa marks the site where the five ascetics first met and receive Lord Buddha who had travelled from Uruvela after his enlightenment. The octagonal structure on top of the stupa was later erected by Akbar, a Mughal ruler back then, to commemorate the visit of his father, Humayun to that spot. The structure had remained until today.

Chaukhandi Stupa with a commemorative octagonal tower erected on top

Just about 5km away from Chaukhandi Stupa, locates the most important site in Buddhist history, the Deer's Park. Deer's Park or Migadaya in the ancient times was the site where Lord Buddha preach the Dhamma for the first time to the five ascetics, hence setting the Dhamma wheel (dhammacakka) in motion. The sutta was hence named Dhammacakkapavattana Sutta or the Discourse of Turning of the Dhamma Wheel, where the Buddha first expounded the Four Noble Truth (cattāri ariyasacca) and introduced the Noble Eightfold Path (ariyo aṭṭhaṅgiko magga) as the Middle Path (majjhimā patipadā) to be practised to free oneself from the samsaric cycle and hence attain nibbāna, the Ultimate Bliss. Just not far from the entrance locates the ruins of the Dhammarajika stupa which

Ruins of Dhammarajika Stupa

was built by King Asoka to commemorate the historical event. The original stupa was unfortunately destructed by Jagat Singh, a minister in Varanasi during the late 18th century in development of housing colony there, with the Buddha relic that was once enshrined here discarded, thinking that the relic is just a piece of junk rock. What is left is just the circular base of the stupa. Just beside the stupa is the ruins of the Mulagandhakuti or the First Perfumed Shrine where the Buddha spent his first rain retreat there. Located just beside the chamber is the fragments of the Asokan Pillar in Isipatana. The pillar fragments was enclosed with a transparent casing with the inscription still visible on the pillar. The Lion Capital of the pillar was displayed in the Sarnath Museum with other artifacts unearthed here in Migadaya.

Ruins of Mulagandhakuti

Description about the Mulagandhakuti

Fragments of Asokan Pillar

Description about the Asokan Pillar

Located not far towards the east was the Pancayatana Cetiya or the Shrine of Five Bases, the site where it was believed that the ordination of a rich man, Yasa as the Lord Buddha's sixth bhikkhu took place. In fact, Ven. Yasa's parents and siblings were the first batch of Lord Buddha's lay disciples. Amazingly, the texture and patterns engraved terracotta brick-made shrine were still clearly visible.

Remnants of Pancayatana Cetiya

Dhamekh Stupa or Dhamakha, the most prominent structure in Sarnath, was located further east from the Dhammarajika Stupa. The location of the stupa was believed to be the site where Lord Buddha expounded the second sermon, Anattalakkhana Sutta, the Discourse of Non-Self, where upon the accomplishment of the sermon, all the five ascetics attained Arahantship. There are burnt marks visible on the stupa which was believed to be the result of Jagat Singh's action. Here in Migadaya, Bro Tan shared with us the content of the Dhammacakkapavattana Sutta, including the two extremes to be avoided, the four noble truths and their aspects. At the end of the discourse, it was mentioned that only Ven. Kondañña understood the Lord's teaching at that time.

Dhamekh Stupa

Sarnath Archaeological Museum

In the afternoon, we visited the Sarnath Archaeological Museum, where most of the artifacts unearthed in Migadaya were put to display there, including the Lion Capital of the Asokan Pillar as well as some other Hindu artifacts. Due to the restriction by the museum authority, we were not allowed to bring any gadgets or devices into the museum. So, no pictures are taken for this visit. Anyway, we are so glad that we manage to see the polished sandstone-made Lion Capital which was still looks shiny as well as the well-carved Preaching Buddha-rupa. During the excursion, I got to know that actually the carvings of four animals that appeared on the Lion Capital represented the Blessed One's personalities and characteristics: Elephant - strength and latent tenacity; Bull - leadership and perseverance; Horse - swift and well-disciplined; Lion - fearlessness.

Mulagandha Kuti Vihara

In the evening, we went to the Mulagandha Kuti Vihara for our evening puja. Mulagandha Kuti Vihara was built by the Maha Bodhi Society under the efforts of Anagarika Dharmapala with financial assistance from Mrs Mary Elizabeth Foster of Hawaii in 1931. The Dhammacakkapavattana Sutta of different languages were displayed here. We also chanted the sutta for our evening puja. Fortunately, we also had the opportunity to pay our homage to the Buddha relics enshrined there. After that, we paid a short visit to the Jambudvipa Sri Lankan Buddhist Temple located not far from this vihara before returning to Varanasi.

Mulagandhakuti Vihara

River of Ganga

The next morning, we were excited to have the chance to go for a dawn cruise along the River of Ganga, the place which was deemed sacred to the Hindu communities in India. Various religious activities connected to their Hinduism culture were seen performed by the river. There are also some Indians performing laundry by the river. We also had the opportunity to have a glimpse at the cremation ghat where the bodies of the dead will be cremated there. Out of respect to the families of the dead, we were advised to to snap any photo there, but just silently and reflectively observe the activities carried out at the cremation ghat. During our cruise at the cremation ghat, we were reminded by Bro Tan about the samsaric cycle.

"How many had carried us and teared for us? How many had we carried and teared for? How long we need to continue with these over and over again? Think about it."

Yup. Due to our habits or kilesa, often we fell for samsaric trap, and continue that over and over again. To stop ourselves from indulging further, the right cultivation of mind is required, and that shall be each and everyone of us as a Dhamma practitioners' aspiration in freeing ourselves from that cycle of pleasurables and miseries. We carried out our morning puja and chanted Karaniya Metta Sutta on-board after the sun rises.

Cruising along the Ganga River with some historical building structure located along the river

An Indian lady performing laundry by the river

Sunrise at the Ganga River

The river ghat where we departed from

Back in the hotel, we performed meal dāna to the Sangha members from a university in Varanasi. We even have some conversations with them. It was quite enjoyable. After having our lunch, we packed and depart for La Bahadu Shastri International Airport. We felt utmost gratitude to our tour guide, Bro Rahul, the bus driver and also his attendant for ensuring our Dhammayatra journey in India a smooth one. We departed for Bangkok at 4.30pm Indian time and reached the Suvarnabhumi Airport at 9.00pm of Bangkok time.

That's all for Baranasi and Isipatana, the site where the Blessed One expounded the Four Noble Truth for the first time, resulting in the forming of Sangha community and the completion of the three refuges.

My Dhammayatra journey continues in Bangkok...